Copenhagen is the place to go for people looking to experience Europe without being overwhelmed. It is a relatively small city (under 500,000) but is as rich in culture as a larger European city. Because it is a smaller country with a language spoken only by about 5 million people, most Danes speak very fluent English and love to practice with native speakers. With the amazing train system in Denmark it is very easy to take day trips to various surrounding towns like Roskilde.

Copenhagen is truly a splendor of Northern European Capitals. Indeed, its streets full of stern-faced Danes and long, cold winter nights might indicate otherwise, but beneath the serious looks hides a friendly, warm people, and beneath the long, cold winter nights lies...well, okay the weather's not the best. But, catch the city on a warm sunny summer or autumn day, and people flock to city parks, squares and pedestrian avenue. There could hardly be a more "hygge" experience than sitting around with a group of friends along Nyhavn, tossing down Carlsbergs. You will find that the Danes are a very welcoming, warm-hearted people, once you break the ice. Just one bit of advice: No matter what time of year it is, and regardless of what the sky looks like when you head out, don't be foolish and go anywhere without an umbrella. You are at 55ºN, on an island surround by the Baltic and North Seas. Nonetheless, compared to other Scandanavian nations, Denmark is a little warmer, less expensive, and I would argue, more modern and contemporary, which is likely aided by their geographical connection with mainland Europe.

Copenhagen's city-bikes are great. they're handy, bright, incredibly heavy, comically shoddy and free with a 20KR deposit which you get back once you return the bike. There are city bike racks on most streets and you just help yourself...however if you want one with a chain, a saddle that's not also a seesaw and round wheels, you've got to get there first. And my tip is: don't leave your beloved city bike unattended - people are encouraged to collect abandoned city bikes and return them to their rack, and they DO. (that's the end of your 20KR smoothie.)

At Nyhavn, the "new harbour", there is a fish restaurant (can't remember the name) where you can have a great herring buffet for lunch for about 11 Euro. It features all kinds of herring (a popular North and Baltic Sea fish): grilled, cooked, smoked, even marinated, raw herring. Most of it is extremely delicious, some may be a little too exotic for the normal fish-eater, though. But you can still give it a try. And the best thing is that you can eat as much as you can, until 5 p.m. You can sit either in the cosy restaurant or outside at the quai. So, if you're into fish, you definitely have to try this. If you on the other hand can't stand any kind of fish, then this would surely be a waste of money.

The "Sleep in Green" is a hostel that has devoted itself to eco-friendliness. Definitely no problem with that. Nevertheless, I didn't like the hostel too much. Major drawbacks were: One dorm for 20 people; very basic sanitary equipment; very poor breakfast for an extra 4 Euro; young, punky, often unfriendly staff; luggage stored in a pile of backpacks in front of the front desk which is no real protection against theft. What I liked, though, was the big number of backpapers virtually from all around the world - therefore I give it a "fair" rating. Price for one night stay at around 12 Euro. Stay at a max for two nights, but no way longer!

If you're walking through the streets of Copenhagen at night, looking for some groovy live music, try the Mojo. It's very close to the "Stroget" (the main shopping street) and hosts good Blues live acts in an easy-going atmosphere. I found it quite easy to get into a chat with both locals and tourists there. Beer prices are average (for Danish standards) at around 5 Euro. The Mojo may not have a live performance every night, so make sure you check the agenda. Some live acts are without entry fee, btw.

Christiania is a park in Copenhagen where soft drugs have been not legalized but permited. You enter this huge park, lake included, and you start to see the stalls to buy all kinds of cannabis. Best of all is that around 1000 people live there in a community created in the 70s when hippies took over that park and nobody could kick them out. A must see!

About 7 weeks after Easter, Copenhagen gears up for a 3-day holiday to usher in summer. The Karneval celebration includes tons of suds (the drinkable kind), spray foam, costumes and parades. Most stores, banks, and even the Carlsberg Brewery hang out their "closed for business" signs during Karneval. If you venture down the pedestrian walks of Ostergade and Amagertov, take care not to trip over empty bottles or revelers sleeping off hangovers. Fortunately the festivities- and resulting fallout- are short-lived.

Don comfortable walking shoes, catch the train to Sorgenfri (1/2 hour from Copenhagen) and walk a few blocks to the Frilandsmuseet. Spread out and countrified outdoor museum consisting of buildings (homes, barns) representing various areas of Denmark. Many homes have thatched roofs and if you're lucky, you can observe some being installed. Most homes furnished. Cobblestone and gravel walkways. Also windmills. Uniformed attendants to answer questions. Picnic area. Inside main building- small gift shop, rest rooms, restaurant.

Local apartment dwellers may escape the hustle and bustle of urban obligations to a place in the country. And just a bridge away- Amager (one of nearly 500 islands in Denmark) is a May to October type of getaway. Brightly painted wooden cottages hardly larger than doll houses. Association rents plots of land (also tiny). No running water except at community center (bath facilities, laundry). Resident directory and map near entrance. Lots tastefully landscaped with flowers and hedges. Can stroll about freely.