By drugs, Malaysian authorities don't distinguish between 'hard' and, er... hash. If you get caught, that's it for you, no matter what your nationality. A French national spent 17 years imprisoned because some was found in her luggage. It was proven that it had been planted on her, but she was still improsoned. Another thing: Smuggling drugs into the country: Beware of helpful porters and never leave your luggage unattented. Refuse to bring clothes for refugees across the boder: they might be drug-soaked. And never, EVER, accept to pass on packages for 'that great friend of yours' you met in Bangkok. You'll be turned over, while the 'great friend's' accomplice will get through with a bigger quantity. A famous 'package' is a smiling Budda, which is of course hollow...

There are many things that the traveller should be aware of: First, people find it funny when "Whites" (=orang putih or Mat Salleh) walk around with shorts on. It's hot, I'll grant u that, but if others can walk around in cotton trousers so can you ;-) I wouldn't recommend jeans, since you get sticky after a while. Women should avoid showing shoulders, but forearms are OK. The same rules as in Muslim countries more or less apply, although not realy for big towns (Penang, K.L., Subang Jaya, Johore Baharu, Ipoh) but definately does in the north-eastern regions (they are quite fanatical about it...). Don't point or stare at peopl: it's considered to be even more rude than in the West but is of course accepted with children. If you want to show something, do it with your thumb lying across your index. Generally, Malaysians (the 3 main groups are Malays, Chinese and Indiens) are very friendly and you always get invited somewhere. If you see a pile of shoes at the house entrance, take your shoes off before entering. If you decide to bring a present, careful of the wrapping. safe is: for Muslims: green, yellow (no red or white). For Chinese: Green, Red.

A worthwhile attraction on Peninsula Malaysia is the Cameron Highlands and the best thing to do is just go for long walks amongst her great jungles. To get there from KL take the bus from the busy Puduraya station, which is just to the east of Chinatown and is on Jalan Pudu. It is only a few hours and is cheap at about RM10. The bus will drop you right in the heart of the small town of Tanah Rata and from the bus stop there a couple of cheap places to stay and eat within a short walk. Try Twin Pines Chalet as a place to stay with RM8 dorms. Steer clear of the expensive resorts. Comfortable places abound for a quarter of the price. You will be able to buy cheap maps wherever you stay, which will detail about a dozen good walks.

For a sporting retreat, there is a 50 metre Olympic sized swimming pool at the foot of Stadium Chinwoo. It is a short 2 minute walk from Jalan Sultan in Chinatown up the hill along Jalan Hang Jebat. You will be able to see it on your right after a couple of hundred metres. In the background you can see the National Stadium (Stadium Negara) which is worth a look if stadiums interest you. Unfortunately for all you swimmers, the lanes are width ways not length ways, which turns a fantastic pool into a bit of a headache. Woman can wear whatever bathers they wish but men can only wear proper speedo bathers (or budgie smugglers as they are often called!). If you don't have these 'sausage hammocks' available, you can rent them from the kiosk for a few ringgit.

There are a few cosey hostels in central KL where you can be everything for little money. I have stayed at a few over the years, but keep coming back to Backpackers Travellers Inn at 60 Jalan Sultan right in the heart of Chinatown. It is a cool and friendly place and is always booked out as it has a good name amongst travellers. If you wish to book in advance or check for vacancies the number is 03-2382473. There are dorms for about RM10 and rooms for about RM40 but both prices can be more if you want air-con.

On the East Coast of Malaysia there is a relaxing and beautiful island called Tioman Island which is easy and cheap to get to from KL. As with most East Coast destinations, buses leave a few times a day from the busy Puduraya station, which is just to the east of Chinatown and is on Jalan Pudu, for Mersing, which is the port town you will have to stay in. After overnighting in Mersing " there is plenty of cheap accommodation as well as places to eat " you have to be up and at the port early as ferries can only leave and arriving during high tide due to a silting problem at the head of the river. The bus from KL to Mersing is less than RM20 and the ferry out to Tioman is 35RM return on the slower boats that take 2.5 hours to cover the 60 odd kilometres. There are a few drop off points for the ferry, but some only have resorts. Best to get off at Kampung Tekek which has a good beach, great access to walking tracks amongst the islands jungle (Tioman is 40km's long and over 10km's wide in places), as well as cheap places to stay (with chalets ranging between RM10 to 35RM) and eat. Loose yourself for a few days, or longer.

The National Mosque (Masjid Negara) has quite a unique design of more traditional Islamic art, calligraphy and ornamentation. It has an umbrella like roof and 73 metre (245 feet) minaret which apparently "symbolises the aspirations of an independent nation". Whatever you think of these claims, it is still worth a look around as it is a quiet centre just near a very busy junction of traffic. The main dome has 18 points to it, which represent the 5 pillars of Islam and the 13 Malaysian states. Just across Jalan Perdana (Garden Street) is the Islamic Centre where you can view collections of Islamic texts and artifacts as well as weaponry from different eras of Islamic Civilisation. Both these would be best visited during a reflective stage, rather than after, say, doing a tab of E. Only for the quiet and respectful

There is a relaxing and tranquil walk from KL train station " which in itself is worth a look for it's early 1900's architecture " that encompasses the nearby Taman Tasek Perdana (Lake Gardens Park). Just follow the clearly labelled English signs and an afternoon will fly by while you visit the National Monument, a butterfly park, a bird park, a deer park, the Masjid Negara (National Mosque), National Museum and National Planetarium . It is a fantastic walk amongst amazing greens and bright colors.

The Kuala Lumpur Zoo is one of the best I have visited in Asia - tranquil (if you go during a week day), interesting (if you like Malaysian wildlife) and humane. Most Asian Zoo's and wildlife parks would make the average animal rights conscious person enraged but KL's is a nice change. It is set amongst a nice lake and is a casual bus ride from the bus station on Jalan Amphang (the major street along the creek Sungai Kelang) just north of the city centre. Take minibus number 17. There is cool aquarium on the zoo grounds as well.

Bahasa Indonesia was derived from Malay, or Bahasa Melayu, which is the country's national language. With the diversity of population in Malyasia, from the original Indian and Chinese gold traders, Tamil and a little Hindi, as well as Mandarin are spoken by the respective communities. There are dialects of Bahasa Melayu in other regions but in KL the standard form is spoken. English is the language that joins all these groups together and is compulsory in secondary school, so you will have no problem getting around with only English.

Dusk in Chinatown is a great place to find food markets serving great Chinese, Malay and Indian food. The restaurants serving food to the tables set up in the blocked off streets are not so cheap, but there are moving stalls that can fill you up for a few ringgit. The major street of Jalan Petaling is closed off to traffic between Jalan Sultan and Jalan Cheng Lock and the whole area eats and drinks until the weather decides it is time to go indoors.

Handshakes generally suffice for both men and women in Malaysia. However, some Muslim ladies may acknowledge an introduction to a man with the nod of the head and a smile. The traditional greeting of "salam" resembles a handshake with both hands but without the grasp. The man offers both hands, lightly touches his friend's outstretched hands, then brings his hands to his chest to mean, "I greet you from my heart". The visitor should reciprocate the "salam".

Handshakes generally suffice for both men and women in Malaysia. However, some Muslim ladies may acknowledge an introduction to a man with the nod of the head and a smile. The traditional greeting of "salam" resembles a handshake with both hands but without the grasp. The man offers both hands, lightly touches his friend's outstretched hands, then brings his hands to his chest to mean, "I greet you from my heart". The visitor should reciprocate the "salam".

A small but significant warning: Trafficking in illegal drugs carries the death penalty in Malaysia.

KL's sterile new airport (for those who haven't been since the Commonwealth Games of September 1988) is now twice as far from the city as the old charismatic sweatbox airport. Public transport is still the way to go to get there though: KL train station, platform 3A to Nilai stop (60 minutes) and then change for the airport bus (45 minutes). Total cost is about 10MYR, which is much cheaper than a taxi which can get caught in bad traffic, depending on the time of day, and not end up that much quicker.

On Jalan Sultan in Chinatown is a classic old movie theatre called 'The Rex'. It has a great atmosphere, plays newly released films and is very cheap compared to some of the other cinemas in the city centre. Nudity is often cut for the benefit of the young Muslim audience but it is a good way to break up a day of walking around the sights of KL.

Pretty much the coolest attraction to visit if you are in KL is the Batu Caves. They are only a short bus ride - about 40 minutes - from the city centre and worth the trip if you are up for a vertical walk and some nature. Take bus number 11 from the Central Market on Jalan Hang Kasturi to get there. Careful of heading out there during the annual Thaipusam Festival, where thousands head out to the Hindu shrine in the main "Cathedral" cave. Careful, also, of the 270 odd steps to reach the huge limestone cave mouth, as a few older punters have apparently fallen and taken anyone between them and the ground with them.

The Petronas Tower (originally called Twin Towers - for obvious reasons once you see it) stands 452 metres and claimed by the Malaysian Government to be the largest building in the world. However, that is only the case if you count the antenna. None the less it is an amazing sight, worth a look and now the walkway between the two towers is open, it will provide a great view of the greater KL area. It is quite a nice walk from the heart of KL to the Towers. Head down Jalan Ampang, where you can grab some great food in Little India, pass the KL Tower (421 metres) and see some impressive Colonial architecture now used for Foreign Embassy's.